Henrietta Brooch

I named this planetary dream brooch after an astronomer, Henrietta Swan Leavitt. Henrietta's work in analyzing and research estimations on the distances of stars and galaxies is the reason why we have a better understanding of the size and evolution of the universe. Sadly, her work went gravely unnoticed during her life and was woefully under appreciated. It wasn’t until after her death was when it was finally understood the true magnitude of her work. 

You have seen crescent motifs in Victorian jewelry before. Most are studded with diamonds and luscious pearls. But have you seen something like this where it’s elaborately color studded and multi-gemmed? I highly doubt it. If you do find one, please let me know so we can both geek out together!

My first thought was that I found a harlequin brooch. When I reviewed it more, I realized the gemstones likely represent the planets alongside the literal representation of the stars and the crescent moon. There isn’t consistent literature that defines which gemstones represent certain planets. George Kunz referenced planetary jewelry as heavenly bodies and they typically represent the Sun, Moon, and the five ancient plants: Mercury, Venus, Mars, Jupiter, and Saturn. While this brooch doesn’t have a moonstone, there are opals present which could represent the Moon. The white stones are quartz or white sapphire which could represent the Sun.

Stones present all appear original except for one stone that was previously a rhinestone (ECK!) and possibly a red doublet star. I knew that rhinestone had to leave, don’t worry it’s been replaced with a pearl.  

The Henrietta brooch is ideal for an advanced antique jewelry collector. The magical celestial Victorian motifs are a sure admirable item to welcome in someone’s collection. If you are just starting out collecting, send me a message and I can walk through some more detailing of how you can be mindful in enjoying this lovely brooch! Sometimes history is tough on antique jewelry. Even though there are antique jewelry items that are kept in well preserved condition, I am an advocate of maintaining its history. Knowledge is power, please let me know how I can help in you welcoming Henrietta in your collection!

The following has been assessed by an expert antique gemmologist. 

White faceted (sparkly) stones are: Quartz or White Sapphire (stone was too small to confirm)

Pink stones are: Sapphire, Ruby, pink paste, almandine garnet, and a red doublet (old but not sure if it’s original. It's the red star stone.)  

Light blue stone: natural turquoise

Milky white stones: natural opals  

White stone: full pearl

Dark blue stone: natural blue sapphire

Specification:

14k-15k gold

1.8" in overall length and 0.7" in overall width 

3.75 grams

Care:

Extremely Advanced – I left the prior adhesive alone.

Clean:

Extremely Advanced – due to the presence of the doublet, delicate stones like opals and pearls, and the adhesive. I recommend just light soap and brushing with a baby toothbrush. Take care around the doublet, opal, and pearls.

Condition:

Humble condition. There’s adhesive primarily towards the middle area of the brooch. The prongs have been worn. There’s several chips and deep grooves in these gemstones. After consulting with several antique jewelry experts, I’ve also decided to keep the brooch in its current historical state.

Cost Drivers

Gemstone type: above average (these old cuts! Natural gemstones too)

Gold purity level: above average

Gemstone quantity: average 

Gold weight: average

Rarity: supreme

Condition: humble